DESIGNERS AND ARTISTS - DUTCH TOUCH PARIS 2005
DUTCH TOUCH PARIS 2005, l’Univers de la Mode néerlandaise
BIOGRAPHIES PARTICIPATING DESIGNERS AND ARTISTS
Angelos Bratis, Barbara de Ru, Bas Kosters, Bas Manders, Cees Krijnen, Charlotte Albers, Corné Gabriels, Daryl van Wouw, David Parker and The Bang Group, Esther Loonen, Fleur van Maarschalkerwaart, Wolf-homme (Francisco van Benthum), Frido van der Weij, Freudenthal/Verhagen (Carmen Freudenthal et Elle Verhagen), G+N fashionfugitive (Gerrit Uittenboogaard et Natasja Martens), Jan Taminiau, Jeroen Teunissen, Jeroen van Tuyl, Joline Jolink, Katrin Neyer, Kim Bekker, Mada van Gaans, Mary-Lou Berkulin, Martin C de Waal, Martine van ’t Hul, Melanie Rozema, Monique van Heist, Niels Klavers, Oscar Suleyman (Oscar Raaijmakers et Süleyman Demir), Paul Staartjes, Percy Irausquin, Peter Jeroense, Piet Paris, Rob Ponsen, Stephan Schreiber, Wendelien Daan, Wojtek Dziedzic
Dutch-trained fashion designer Angelos Bratis graduated from the Fashion Institute Arnhem in 2002. Bratis chose this study to refine his style with the profundity of the FIA course, mixing nostalgic elegance with ‘northern’ infuences, which results in an edgy, modern style. Bratis sells his designs in various stores in Greece. Since graduating he has created four prêt-a-porter collections for his own label. Bratis prefers his fabrics to be authentic: “I love old things. Modern things are so cold. I need things that have ‘lived’”. He uses silk fabric, rough cotton canvas, vintage trimmings, lace, chiffon and handmade details with cotton embroidery. With asymmetrical and circle cuts, voile and prints, he creates his collections for women who ‘desire to be desired’.
Barbara de Ru
Barbara de Ru graduated from the master course Fashion Institute Arnhem (FIA) last January when she presented her collection A(R)MOUR during the FIA-graduation show at the Amsterdam Fashion Week. The international fashion world got acquainted with her during the last prêt-a-porter week in Paris, when she made an anarchy statement outside the fashion show of Stella McCartney for the Fashion Institute project ‘ANARCHY’. Her collection A(R)MOUR is inspired by Medieval armour. The hard material and harsh goal of the armour is in contrast with its beauty and craftsmanship. De Ru has translated the hard material and appearance to a soft, wearable collection, with a lot of attention to material manufacturing, handcraft and detailing. De Ru has graduated with honours from the fashion academy AMFI. During her studies she was a design intern at H&M and the co-founder of BaconLettudeTomato; a street wear brand specialised in tops and prints. With her collection ‘Punklore’ she won the renowned Robijn Fashion Award. Her collection was taken into production and sold by department store ‘de Bijenkorf’. Now that she is graduated De Ru would like to gain working experience at a design house, before continuing her own label.
Bas Kosters could be called an all-round-designer more than just a fashion designer. Still, it was his fashion collection ‘Two teacups and a frying pan’, which he designed as a graduation collection for the Fashion Institute Arnhem, that made him win the acclaimed Dutch Robijn Fashion Award, and gained him international success. His refreshing clothing designs, his bags and his doll designs caused a national hype, followed by many interviews and fashion editorials in magazines. His work was also shown in the trendy department store Colette in Paris. Bas Kosters main focus point in his designs is recycling. Returning themes are applications and fabric designs. His style is so recognizable and applicable, that Bas is also intensely working on creating accessories, drawings and paintings, which caught the eye of Dutch design company Bugaboo, who asked him to paint his designs on a limited edition baby-stroller. Even when he’s not designing or creating, he is always the centre of attention at events and parties, where together with his friends and (b)assistants, he will make the crowd go wild during inventive music performances.
[ www.baskosters.com ]
The graphic house style of the Dutch Touch campaign is created by graphic designer Bas Manders (1977). Manders is currently studying at Hallo© Academy; a one-year postgraduate study for applied creativity with the emphasis on strategy-, vision- and concept development within the advertising business. Manders got a first training in conceptual- and graphic design while studying at the AMFI fashion academy. Bas Manders is also a fashion editor for the magazine Young Designers Network and works as an art director in advertising. Recently he created the art direction for a series of billboard commercials for chocolate concern Kitkat. He also designed the limited edition fashion coca cola light can for the Dutch fashion designers Oscar Suleyman. Manders, a close friend of the Dutch Fashion Foundation (DFF), has created most of the artwork and graphic style for all the DFF projects in the past, such as the Italian based exhibition WonderHolland. Also closely related to the Fashion Institute Arnhem and the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design, Manders developed all the invites for their graduation shows.
Artist Cees Krijnen (1969) is a multifaceted, interdisciplinary artist who himself says he does everything except paint. He studied theatre design at the Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam, and continued his versatile career at the theatre and fine art study course Das Arts. The interdisciplinary aspect in his work showed when for the exhibition WonderHolland in October 2004, Krijnen worked together with the Dutch fashion duo Oscar Suleyman who designed a fur dress for one of his works of art: a wax statue of his mother. His mother Greta Blok has more than once been an inspiration for his art projects; she is his muse. Here life is a central theme in his work. Even her taking a self-defence course can result into a new art project. The work of Krijnen has been displayed at many performances, group exhibitions and solo exhibitions. With his project ‘Financing my parents divorce’ he won the prestigious Prix de Rome in 1999. With the much-discussed ‘Women in Divorce Battle on Tour’ Krijnen has been travelling with his mother and her body double to exhibitions in Milan, Paris, London, New York, Tirana and Berlin. Cees Krijnen is what is commonly referred to as a modern artist, or entrepreneur; networking, telephony and emails have long since overtaken the paintbrush and palette.
[ www.ceeskrijnen.com ]
Charlotte Albers graduated from the master course Fashion Institute Arnhem (FIA) in 2004 with her collection inspired by the never-ending story of rhythm. She presented this graduation collection to the international fashion audience in Paris with a catwalk presentation during the Haute Couture week. Prior to the FIA master course, Albers studied at the Art Academy in Maastricht. During her studies she worked as an intern for the Dutch fashion designers Oscar Suleyman, and had a work placement at the design division of the department store HEMA for which she created technical drawings and print designs. Albers assisted Belgian designer Jurgi Persoons at a show and showroom, during the prêt-a porter week in Paris in 1999. Since her graduation Albers has been participating in various projects and exhibitions. She was one of the young designers who got the change of presenting themselves during a catwalk show at the first Amsterdam International Fashion Week in July 2004. Together with other FIA-alumni her designs appeared in a photo shoot with acclaimed Dutch photographer Wendelien Daan. In fact, it is Albers’ multi-coloured and patterned dress on the image that has become the general Dutch Touch campaign logo.
Corné Gabriëls is a Dutch designer living and working in Amsterdam. The first years after graduating from the Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam, his work was mainly showed in the art circuit. Because his work was always made from textiles and very related to fashion, he was selected to enroll in the master course Fashion Institute Arnhem in 2000. After producing two collections, he finds the detailing in his work the most interesting. He decided to concentrate on this element and started his first accessory collection. His work is best described as simple and pure. He likes to use existing concepts, but puts them in a new light, which gives it a totally different feeling. By changing the material or form, he makes you look at it in another way. Gabriëls’ accessories are closely related to clothing and fashion, and are modern and classic at the same time. He likes to produce limited collections, to assure that the person who wears his items, has something special. His accessories can be worn by men and women. Corné Gabriëls is also teaching at the Textile department of the Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam and working on different international projects.
Daryl van Wouw
Before graduating from the master course Fashion Institute Arnhem (FIA) last January, Daryl van Wouw studied at the Arnhem Academy for Art and Design. His first collection ‘Sport-à-porter’ combined his two passions; couture and sport. Each outfit referred literally to games such as basketball, American football and baseball. With this collection Van Wouw participated in the Dutch Robijn Fashion Award. During his studies Van Wouw got the opportunity to do an internship with Dutch couture designer Mart Visser, who showed him all the ins and outs of pattern drawing, sewing and fashion design. Van Wouw left Arnhem for New York where he did an internship at Donna Karan, focussing on fashion and prints design. As a freelance designer, Van Wouw worked for brands such as Converse, Swatch and Nissan. His FIA-graduation collection ‘Ghetto Couture’ brings an eclectic mix of street and high fashion designs. Van Wouw strives to dress women fashionable yet comfortable at all occasions and times. Van Wouw’s style suits the independent cosmopolitan woman who identifies herself with the words; streetwise, successful, melting pot and couture.
[ www.darylvanwouw.com ]
David Parker and The Bang Group
David Parker and his contemporary dance company The Bang Group, offer innovative rhythm-based dance theatre. As a choreographer, David Parker takes the rhythm of tap and body percussion, the antic wit of silent film comedy, the rigor and lavish movement of contemporary dance and mixes them into a new kind of dance theatre. Parker tells stories full of poignant discrepancies between insides and outsides; peeling away surfaces to reveal the sensuous and vulnerable things underneath. The company's mission encompasses the development of new audiences for contemporary dance as well as the mentoring of young choreographers through production, education and aesthetic support. Parker has choreographed for the Verona ballet in Italy, modern dance companies and universities in the United States, and commercial projects as his work for Stolichnaya Vodka Industrial. The Bang Group tours widely in Europe and North America and collaborates with other choreographers and artists from other media, but also takes interest in fashion. For the performance Bound Edition, David Parker & The Bang Group collaborated with Dutch fashion designers Melanie Rozema and Jeroen Teunissen who designed their costumes and won a New York Dance and Performance Award for their work in 2002.
Esther Loonen studied fashion design at Arnhem Academy of Art and Design where she graduated in 2000. The same year she started working for the Dutch designer couple Oscar Suleyman, combining this with a master course at the Fashion Institute Arnhem. Loonen has always been drawn by the abroad, which first accumulated in an internship at Maria Cornejo’s Zero in New York during her studies. After her graduation from her masters she decided to gain more international working experience in Paris, a city for which she had always felt a strong affection. She has been in Paris for three years and amongst others her last working experience has been for Isabel Marant, where she assisted on the collections and worked on the accessories. Painting is something Loonen has always practiced and stimulated by Paris’ aesthetics and atmosphere it took a more profound form. Her works are directly connected and influenced by her regard as a designer and show a search and love for aesthetics, fashion and image making. In the series BIRDS she mixes several techniques, whether the use of the computer to maintain a strong photographic character, or different painting techniques and materials such as ink and oil on canvas.
Fleur van Maarschalkerwaart
Fleur started working as a graphic designer after her MA Interactive Multimedia 1999. The first few years she worked primarily for design companies. Two years ago she decided to focus on her art and began as a freelancer. Fleur is fascinated by the contradiction of craft versus modern technology. In her work she combines the hand-made (drawn) feeling with a computer related look in order to create a separate layer of meaning. The result embodies a sense of finished yet unfinished, emotional and sensitive yet dead. She draws on imagery from the ‘fashion industry’, namely the ‘iconic’ portraits and poses which seduce us. However by separating these from their original contexts, and subjecting them to a “tender touch” they acquire a different meaning. At Dutch Touch, artwork of the collaboration with Martine van 't Hul,
who¹s passion lies in fabrics and embroideries, will be shown.
[ www.fleurvanmaarschalkerwaart.com ]
Francisco van Benthum
WOLF-homme is run by designer Francisco van Benthum, and based in both Amsterdam and Antwerp. WOLF-homme is a menswear label, which made its first appearance into men’s ready-to-wear in January 2003 with the collection ‘Debut’ for AW 2003-2004. A WOLF-homme collection includes a classic part, a more outspoken fashion part and a range of accessories and additional accessory-garments to create the specific WOLF-homme look. Every garment is treated with attention to develop a perfect fit and unexpected detailing on both outside an inside. Van Benthum is also part of the design duo KEUPR/van BENTM, works with Dutch designer Alexander van Slobbe and on projects such as PUMA Rudolf Dassler by Alexander van Slobbe.
Frido van der Weij
Fashion designer Frido van der Weij graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in The Hague and finished the master course of the Fashion Institute Arnhem last January. His graduation collection titled ‘Tommygun – It’s size, color and shape! I love it!’ is inspired by the gangster culture of the 1930’s during the ‘bootlegging’ in the United States. The result is a semi-couture collection for men and women with a mix of comfort and design.
During his studies, Van der Weij worked as a trainee at design house Balenciaga and the Belgium design duo A.F.Vandevorst. His creative use of different furs doesn’t go unnoticed and in 2004 made him the winner of the Fur Innovation Award. In 2004 Van der Weij won the Frans Molenaar Couture Award as well, which enabled him to create a new collection with the financial support of the Frans Molenaar Foundation.
Last March, Van der Weij participated in the project ANARCHY of the Fashion Institute Arnhem in Paris during the Haut Couture week and made a fashion anarchy statement in the Caroussel du Louvre outside the fashionshow of Chanel. At the moment Van der Weij is participating in various exhibitions and will present his couture collection during the next Frans Molenaar Award in June.
Carmen Freudenthal (1965) and Elle Verhagen (1962) both studied at the Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam, graduating respectively as photographer and fashion designer. From 1998 they worked together expressing themselves through art projects. It is only later that they became involved in fashion and began to experiment with fashion and art. Freudenthal and Verhagen accept the disciplines of art and fashion for what they are and experiments freely with them; always searching for ways to surpass themselves. The strength to continue determining what they themselves believe in, without surrendering to the dictates of the fashion or art bastions, lies in the pleasure their work affords them. Freudenthal/Verhagen’s work is fast pace, free of convention and essentially anti-authoritarian. With their photographs full of non verbal information, they effortlessly transcend the conventions of established photography. Their commitment is pure and devoid of pretensions – they spare no one, least of all themselves. Work by Carmen Freudenthal and Elle Verhagen has been published in Dazed & Confused, Jalouse, Studio Voice, High Fashion, Visionaire, I-D, Self Service and N°B. They participated in several exhibitions in Europe, the United States and Japan.
[ www.freudenthalverhagen.com ]
G+N fashionfugitive, made up of the duo Gerrit Uittenbogaard and Natasja Martens, started out in 1999. After his graduation, Uittenbogaard went on to earn a master degree at the Fashion Institute Arnhem where he was among the first group to complete the newly set up training course. Martens designed the accessories for Uittenbogaards FIA final exam show. G+N fashionfugitive’s clothes are just as sharp and graphic as the plus symbol in their logo. Even though their clothes on occasions include strange physical elements and sometimes have an unnatural silhouette, they’re not alienating. The staccato play of lines and razor sharp folds, reminiscent of origami, could be an explanation for G+N fashionfugitive’s popularity in Japan. Uittenbogaard, while still at the academy, decided to do away with dress patterns and so laid the basis for G+N fashionfugitve’s unique signature style. Lack of theoretical background prompted an innovative and unorthodox way of working. The investigative and intuitive character of moulage also plays an important role in G+N fashionfugitive’s design process. Fashionfugitive, the G+N fashionfugitive internet site that went on line in 2000, was significantly named - a hint of self-mockery aimed at putting the fashion world into perspective. Similarly G+N caused a sensation with a wrist accessory inspired by a pincushion.
[ www.fashionfugitive.com ]
Fashion designer Jan Taminiau comes from a family tradition of antique dealers, decorators and interior designers. This formed the foundation for his passion for traditional production techniques, antique materials, the search for the right shape and form and the penchant for aesthetics. His work has a refined, conceptual undertone yet never loses sight of the elegant, feminine and wearable form. Taminiau graduated from the master course Fashion Institute Arnhem, and after a work placement at Hubert Barrere he started his own couture label. He created collections where he turned 2D into 3D; where dresses turned into a perfect circle or a rectangle when laid flat on the floor. The symbol of unfolding, the sensitivity of the unwrapping and the final awakening of the perfect feminine creations leads to a refined end result. Besides working on his couture collections, Taminiau also runs a made-to-measure line. His clothes where presented in the windows of the Paris department store Colette and Taminiau presented his latest work with a catwalk show during the Amsterdam International Fashion Week in August 2004 and January 2005.
[ www.jantaminiau.com ]
Jeroen Teunissen presented six collections together with Melanie Rozema under their collective label Rozema Teunissen. Jeroen Teunissen was an art student at the school’s faculty for Fine Arts while Melanie Rozema studied fashion design at the Fashion Department of the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design. Together they graduated from the Fashion Institute Arnhem as part of the first generation. In contrast to many designers, Rozema Teunissen’s identity lays not so much in a personal style as in their particular mentality. Not clothing, but social behaviour forms the basis for their design process. The image of a stadium after a mega pop concert can result in a form with the same freakish torn pattern as a trampled plastic bag, or red and white hazard tape printed with the word caution. By redoubling and use of linings, the layered content also gains an outward form. In 2001 the label was dissolved. Jeroen Teunissen is currently working on his label SangFroid and, among others, teaches at the Fashion Institute Arnhem.
Jeroen van Tuyl
The men’s wearlabel VanTUYL by Jeroen van Tuyl (1971) was created in January 2000 and is based in Rotterdam. Right after graduating from the Arnhem Institute for the Arts in 1998, Jeroen van Tuyl together with Edwin de Rooij founded the label VanTUYL DeROOIJ. The duo produced two collections. For his first collection in 2001 Van Tuyl used a mix of classical basics in natural fabrics and technological textures that are addressed to young men without concession and turns to the future with a spirit of nostalgia. His collection BRAVE FOR SPRING SUMMER 2003 is a continuation on the ‘evolution’ of the square pattern theme and a translation of historical garments into modern and experimental, but elegant, garments. It is a continuation in the search for ‘new’ wearable men’s wear garments but with respect for the tradition of men’s wear. VanTUYL’s latest autumn/winter collection ROBOTICA was presented last January in Paris. You may find coverage of Jeroen van Tuyl in magazines such as Journal de Textile, Jeunes createurs – Young Blood, Max Mode, Up-street and Composite. Van Tuyl attended a seminar at the Saga international design centre in Vedbæk in Denmark and had practical work experience at the labels Dirk Bikkembergs, Joe Casely-Hayford and So by Alexander van Slobbe. The label VanTUYL is since 2001 part of the official list with mensweardesigners of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine.
[ www.jeroenvantuyl.com ]
Joline Jolink graduated from the master course Fashion Institute Arnhem (FIA) last January, after studying at the fashion department of the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design. While still at the academy, Jolink worked as freelance designer for several fashion brands and as an assistant designer for Viktor&Rolf. Last March Jolink participated in the Paris-based project ANARCHY, where the graduated FIA-designers presented themselves and their collections in an anarchistic way to the international public during the prêt-a-porter-week. Jolink gained much attention with her collection ‘Housewife with an eye for style’ which she presented outside the fashion show of Céline, treating the fashion crowd on a poetic, winter scenery in the snow. For ‘Houswife with a sense of style’ Jolink’s inspiration was the 40’s, all American designer Claire McCardell. Like McCardell once said: “Women don’t want their clothes to look like overalls, but they want them to act like overalls”, Jolink also strives to create comfort in her designs. Comfort, but also sensuality, by using high quality wool, silk fabrics and feminine silhouettes. By the use of metal hooks, topstitching in denim and a lot of pockets, the practicality in her designs shows. Jolink’s style is by its simplicity and graphical touch surprisingly modern.
Katrin Neyer was born in Austria where she studied interior design. In 1996 she moved to the Netherlands to study photography at the AKI Academy of Art and Design, but took up an interested in fashion design and continued her studies at the Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam. Neyer has gained a lot of appreciation for her work. She graduated from the Rietveld Academy in 2001; the same year she won the prestigious Robijn Fashion Awards. With this prize she got the change to produce her collection and have it sold at department store ‘de Bijenkorf’. One year later she collected the second prize of the International Design prize in Apolada, Germany. In 2003 Neyer won the Frans Molenaar Couture Award. Since 2003 her label ‘Kartrin Neyer’ is sold at Young Designer United, a boutique for young talented fashion designers in Amsterdam. Her collection is recognised by an anchor; her logo. She designs by her own taste, which you can type as contemporary, elegant and feminine with a classical touch.
[ www.katrinneyer.com ]
Kim Bekker graduated in 2005 from the master course Fashion Institute Arnhem (FIA) with her collection ‘Fly Girl’ inspired by Art Deco from the 20’s and 30’s. With this collection she wants women to feel self-confident and strengthen the individual character of the woman. You can typify her work as female, elegant, sensual, sexy but never as ordinary or frumpish. Bekker uses garments with a luxury outlook. The international fashion world saw her ‘Fly Girl’-collection during the last prêt a porter week in Paris in front of the show of Chloé, where Bekker and her fellow FIA-graduats made anarchy statement at unexpected locations throughout Paris. This collection was also presented at the Amsterdam International Fashion Week. Before her studies at the Fashion Institute, Bekker graduated from the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design. She has worked on several freelance assignments, such as the set of five outfits she created for shoe brand Converse. When participating at the acclaimed Dutch Robijn Fashion Award, she was granted a honourable announcement.
Mada van Gaans
Mada van Gaans graduated from the Fashion Institute Arnhem (FIA) in 2004 after studying at the AMFI Academy. As a student of the 5th generation of the FIA, she presented her collection during an exhibition in Institut Neérlandais and a catwalk show in Paris. With cat faces and clicking beads, Mada van Gaans designs are for women with many faces and sensual beauty. Mada van Gaans’ work has the capability to take you on a journey through a fantasy world. Inspired by myths, sagas, comic stories and animal figures, she designs fashion and accessories for eccentric women. Mada showed her collection in various museums in Arnhem and The Hague. She presented herself internationally by participating in the fashion contest ITS#3 in Italy and by designing and producing outfits for the 2005 international campaign and calendar of Lavazza, which was photographed by acclaimed Dutch photographer Erwin Olaf. Mada worked as an intern for Bernard Wilhelm and Oscar Suleyman. Her designs have been published in magazines as ELLE, Link, Starstyle and Blvd.
[ www.madavangaans.com ]
Mary-Lou Berkulin studied at the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design before she graduated from the master course Fashion Institute Arnhem (FIA) in January 2005. She presented her collection ‘Turmoil’ during the FIA-graduation show at the Amsterdam International Fashion Week. In March, Berkulin’s anarchy statement during the FIA-graduation project ANARCHY caused quit a stir; just as the name of her collection ‘Turmoil’ states. Her presentation at the prêt-a-porter week in Paris seemed like a protest with a lot of banners and signs, which scared the authorities present at the show of Ann Demeulemeester. But when it turned out that Berkulin was simply there to draw attention to her collection, she got the whole crowd going with her fashion-march. During her studies Berkulin worked a dresser for several Victor & Rolf-fashion shows in Paris. She gained experience as a designer by working as an assistant for Dutch fashion designers Spijkers&Spijkers and Mada van Gaans.
Martin C DeWaal
Manipulation of photographic images lies at the heart of artist Martin C DeWaal ‘s practice.
This Amsterdam-based artist, whose work crosses disciplines, working in design, fashion and the visual arts, is perhaps best known for work in which he uses his own body; digitally and surgically altered, to construct its discourse. His work frequently engages in the notion of 'identity' and its relationship to the way in which mass and fashion media use 'identity' as a commodity. Sexuality, gender and race -and more often the complex intersections between all of these things- features strongly in his work. Working with a combination of questionable cosmetic surgery practises and image manipulation technology, Martin C DeWaal ‘s work -performances, video and photographs- presents us with images of something that is immediately recognisable as a person, but not entirely human. At least not if we are looking for the traditional indicators of our tribe as we think we know it. Martin C DeWaal manipulates age, gender and ethnicity.
[ www.mcdewaal.com ]
Martine van ’t Hul
After her MA graduation at the Fashion Institute in The Netherlands in 2002, Martine started working in Milan for fashion designer Ronald van der Kemp. After a year she began as a freelance designer and found herself working for different companies like Larus Miani, a big Italian fabric company. Working as a freelancer enabled Martine to make her own work the focal point. Martine’s speciality and passion lies in fabrics and embroideries. She loves to design embroideries, and playswith theidea of mandmade versus production techniques. Her first collection in 2000 was called Mi-Confectioné, a term that was introduced at the beginning of the 20th century, which means ‘half-produced’. The idea behind this was that as a designer you deliver a half produced product: as the wearer has an influence on the design aswell. This concept has become a part of her signature as she still likes to play with the thought that something remains; forgotten and unsaid. At Dutch Touch, Martine van 't Hul shows artwork of the collaboration
with artist Fleur van Maarschalkerwaart.
Melanie Rozema have presented six collections together with Jeroen Teunissen under their collective label Rozema Teunissen. Together they graduated from the Fashion Institute Arnhem as part of the first generation. In contrast to many designers, Rozema Teunissen’s identity lays not so much in a personal style as in their particular mentality. Not clothing, but social behaviour forms the basis for their design process. The image of a stadium after a mega pop concert can result in a form with the same freakish torn pattern as a trampled plastic bag, or red and white hazard tape printed with the word caution. By redoubling and use of linings, the layered content also gains an outward form. In 2001 the label was dissolved. Melanie Rozema is currently designing a solo-collection and, among others, teaches at the Fashion Institute Arnhem.
Monique van Heist
Monique van Heist graduated in 1996 from the AKI Academy for the Arts in Enschede and presented her collection for the master course Fashion Institute Arnhem last January in Paris. As a 10-year old, Monique was already busy making clothing. Behind her parents kitchen table she created her own outfits and designed skirts and blazers for her mother, which she sold for 50 guilders per suit. In the meantime she has traded in the kitchen table for a design studio. Monique participated in the final of the Robijn Fashion Award in 1998 and was among the finalists during the Festival des Arts de la Mode 2002 in Hyères, in France. Last January Monique van Heist presented her debut collection ‘Tina’ during the Amsterdam International Fashion Week 2005. ‘Tina’ could be van Heist’s alter ego; a beer drinking, sexy, trashy and disorderly chick that people envy for doing whatever she likes - unconditional. The Rotterdam based label moniquevanheist is known for its cool, sexy, tomboy-like look. The new collection of moniquevanheist will be presented during Dutch Touch New York in September 2005.
[ www.moniquevanheist.com ]
Niels Klavers (1967) graduated from the Gerrit Rietveld Academy and worked for three years as an independent designer before enrolling at the Fashion Institute Arnhem. In 1998 he won first prize at the prestigious French Festival des Arts de la Mode in Hyères with his own collection, and the NPS culture prize in the Netherlands. Together with Saskia van Drimmelen and Alexander van Slobbe, he was associated with the minimalist side of what essentially came to be perceived as Dutch fashion design. Later he teamed up with Astrid van Engelen to set up the label Klavers van Engelen. Their work was matured with time and grown strongly to become a very fluid, soft-coloured poetic world. Klavers exhibits an integrity and simple devotion for material that has led him to develop a more subtle and airy signature. Klavers and Van Engelen’s designs vary from pure conceptual to very wearable. The duo literally and figuratively searches for different perspectives. They mislead the eye with duplication and by applying functional pattern components in new ways and use material treated and fixed in a certain way to give the impression of a garment crumpled in places or ruffled by a breeze.
Behind the label Oscar Suleyman you find fashion designers Oscar Raaijmakers and Süleyman Demir. Both worked as interns at Vivienne Westwood in London and after graduating from fashion academy they worked at different couture houses in Paris, as Veronique Leroy and Dice Kayek. In 1997 Oscar and Süleyman returned to the Netherlands to establish their own label. In that same year they produced their debut collection ‘Only for those who can find balance on a pair of high heels’. Like the title indicates, Oscar Suleyman’s style focuses on classy, sophisticated women. Oscar Suleyman sells in leading boutiques and department stores in Paris, London, Milan, Rome, Berlin, Hong Kong and Tokyo. Apart from designing their own collections, Oscar and Süleyman work on a freelance basis. They designed costumes for a couple of theatre and dance productions. Oscar regularly teaches at the Fashion Department of the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design and the Fashion Institute Arnhem. Süleyman works as a coordinator at the Fashion Institute Arnhem. Together they work for the Dutch brand Oilily, where for a year now they have been responsible for the designs of the womenswear-collection.
Paul Staartjes (1963) has worked as a director of photography for film, television and commercials for eleven years. For five years now he has also worked as a director of commercials, movies and television with ‘hetplatform’; a (post) production company which realises the combination of production and final touch of commercials, television programmes and movies commissioned by clients.
Staartjes has created commercials and movies for different clients varying from banking houses like ING and Rabobank, to airline companies and organisations dedicated to welfare such as the Rheumafonds and Thuiszorg. For the Dutch Fashion Foundation, Staartjes worked as an art director in the production of ‘Les dix parfums’; a series of artistic video’s presenting the work and style of eleven Dutch fashion designers.
Percy Irausquin was born on Aruba and after high school moved to the Netherlands for an education in fashion design at the Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam. After his graduation he continued his fashion course at the Fashion Institute Arnhem in 2001. That same year he was nominated for the Robijn Fashion Award and his love for couture made him win the Frans Molenaar Couture award. After graduating from the Fashion Institute Arnhem he worked at the couture house of Christian Lacroix and for famous corset maker Hubèrt Barrère. He took the experience he acquired back to the Netherlands and created his first independent collection ‘Edmée en bias’. Described as Breakfast at Tiffany’s-meets-Carrie Bradshaw, Irausquins latest collection ‘All dressed up and nowhere to go…’ was presented during the Amsterdam International Fashion Week in January 2005 and mixes prêt-a-porter with couture. Irausquins style is above all feminine. He detests difficult concepts and his leading aim is to make women beautiful, while spreading his motto: ‘don’t excuse yourself for being glamorous, always overdress whatever the occasion’.
Fashion illustrator Peter Jeroense (Rotterdam, 1966) started his career as a fashion designer. He graduated with honours in fashion design and fashion illustration from the Willem de Kooning Academy of Modern Arts. From 1988 he founded and has designed ell=bell, has worked as freelance print designer and was fashion editor for Blvd. magazine. In 1999 he started to deal with the obsession of the "new" within the fashion system as an illustrator. His cut&paste technique blends drawings in pen and ink with parts of photocopied pictures. His signature black and white illustrations have been published in Blvd., Boiler, Carlos, Flaunt, Nylon and Selfridges Tribune. For his advertising campaign for Sigerson Morrison the black and white was supplemented by primary colors red yellow and blue.
[ www.unit.nl ]
Pieter ’t Hoen
Pieter ’t Hoen, better known as Piet Paris, is mostly known for his fashion illustrations, recognisable by their striking drawing style. Yet, ‘t Hoen is active in a lot of other fashionable activities. He is co-founder of the Fashion Institute Arnhem; a master course in fashion design. He also teaches about fashion illustration and 3-D design at several art academies. In 1988 ‘t Hoen graduated in Fashion design and Fashion illustration from the fashion department of the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design. The fashion shows of Paris and Milan are the source of inspiration for this work. ‘t Hoen illustrates for newspapers and magazines in the Netherlands as well as Japan and England. His work has appeared in publications from Germany, Belgium, France and from the USA to Russia. Right now ‘t Hoen is creative director of the Arnhem Fashion Biennale 2005; the premier edition of an international, interdisciplinary happening for the fashion design world to be held every two years in the city of Arnhem. The premier edition of the Arnhem Fashion Biennale will bring national and international fashion designers, manufactures, distributors, fashion lovers and the general public together.
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Photographer Rob Ponsen (1973) studied at the Academy of Arts St. Joost in Breda, the Netherlands, where he graduated in photography. He continued his study with a masters degree course in photography at the same academy. In his work, small, coincidental acts of people in anonymous surroundings of apartment buildings, terraced houses, industrial estates or parks are the main theme. In Ponsens images the surrounding and the individual are evenly important… or evenly unimportant.
Ponsen started out as a photographer for reports, in which the emphasis lay on the narrative, anecdotic and remarkable aspect of images. Now, Ponsen strives to create images that lack these elements. The peculiarity about the unnoticed and ordinary is the starting point of these images, which are a repercussion of a ‘voyage of discovery in a familiar surrounding’.
Stephan Schreiber, born 1976 in Vancouver Canada, grew up in the Southern German town of Würzburg to a German father and a Dutch mother. He followed his studies at the academies in Antwerp and Maastricht and topped them off with a master degree at the Fashion Institute Arnhem in 2003. After his studies he travelled Central America for half a year, which would have an essential influence on him. Rather than finding his interest in the folkloristic elements of the region, it was the everyday clothes of the common people, the farmers or the vendors on the public market that inspired him. And it still is the quirkiness of the common and unfashionable that he looks out for in designing his SRBR collections. Apart from that it is the girl in the back of his head who should be wearing his clothes that matters a lot. And so there is a story behind every collection. In this case it is the story of Cherry, an independent girl in her early thirties who leaves her career and the big city behind, to start her own little chicken farm somewhere in Iowa…
People who see photographer Wendelien Daan's (1965) technically perfect, clean-cut images would not for a minute think she was autodidact. Daan graduated from Arnhem's Institute for the Art's fashion department and in her own words took a shortcut towards perfecting an overall image by photographing the collections of her fellow students. Daan moulds her pictures with the utmost precision and attention to detail, creating beautifully pure sculptural images in which her eye plays over the exterior planes that enclose the human form. Although figurative, her photos in their surface division, refer to the graphic clarity of Mondriaan while the intensities of light and dark that glide over the body are reminiscent of Vermeer. Daan captures a worldly image in a photo in the same way the naked eye registers beauty. Therefore no fuzzy outlines, background and foreground are equally sharply focussed. Daan's play on light and dark, her command of open and closed body language arrest the eye and emphasize female strength. Wendelien Daan has, among others, worked for Viktor & Rolf, Nike, MTV, l'Oreal, Mauboussin and Garnier. Her work has been published in books and magazines such as Jalouse, l’Officiel, The Face, Citizen K and French, Japanese and Russian VOGUE.
[ www.wendeliendaan.nl ]
Fashion designer Wojtek Dziedzic (1970) was born in Poland, but educated in fashion in the Netherlands. After graduating from the Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam, Dziedic followed no less than two master design courses. In 2000 he graduated from the Fashion Institute Arnhem master degree course and to further redefine his personal fashion signature, Dziedzic studied at Central Saint Martins College in London, where he graduated in 2003. During his studies Dziedzic was a participant in various fashion awards. His striking collections caught the eye of the jury and in Poland made him win the Smirnoff Fashion Award in 1998 and the special Jury Prize and Publics Award at the Festival des Arts de la Mode of Hyeres in 2000. That same year Dziedzic was a finalist at the renowned Dutch Robijn Fashion Award. Wojtek Dziedzic has been a creative assistant at projects for Jaguar, DKNY Parfums and Tommy Hilfiger. He has worked as a designer for Alberta Ferretti and Jill Sander.